Creating beads with a FLAT graver (2nd essay) => 11 photos

 In this 2nd (final) version of creating wire beads, I'll be showing exactly how these special beads will look during the preparation process.

 This delicate process had no "CAD" involved; it was all hand-carved.

   Only a Flat graver can achieve this delicate technique.

SETTING OF THE STONES.

1) With your Flat graver, place the corner of the blade at the four corners of the hole. Then you can twist that sliver of metal OVER THE GIRDLE OF THE STONE.

 2) Both of my stones have been accurately gauged for this delicate procedure.

3) Just for your information, this is how my ring clamp has been held.

4) Remember to lower the stone deep into the metal. The deeper you go, the stronger the beads will be.

5) In this photo, you will observe where the graver will be placed.

6) You can see where the Flat graver has started to create two of the beads.

7) Remember to "Dig in & Twist"; this will give you an excellent hand-made bead.

8) Please keep the edge of your Flat graver sharp. The fine edge will cut easily into the metal.

9) There is no need to bead-burnish the tip of the wire beads.

10) This process of making wire beads is the beginning of the "Cut Down" diamond setting technique.

11) I used a fine-pointed Onglette graver #1 to make an extension of the wire bead.

12) With this intricate bead-making technique, you can set delicate and very fragile stones.

13) Don't forget to lower your stone deeper into the metal. This will give you stronger and thicker wire-beads.

Creating metal beads using a FLAT graver? 10 photos (first of two instructions)

  This Scale of Difficulty is 'just off the board', why? There is nothing easy about this innovative procedure. There could be errors of every kind before this ring has even been completed.

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 1) The first thing we see is that the Ruby stone must be set lower than normal into the metal.

 2) Placing the flat cutting edge into the metal and then 'pivot' or twist the sharp front face into the metal.  

    

 Supposing that the first step is to place the stone into this hole. From this one simple photo, there are two things WRONG.

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1) The gemstone is not low enough for the setter to create beads,   using a 'FLAT' shaped graver. 

2) The next error is that the gemstone was placed at an angle, aka 'crooked'.

                             DRILLING OF THE HOLES!

 1) I always use a round bur to gently create a little recess into the metal. This little recess will prevent the twist drill from running amok all over the curved surface. This is 'preventive maintenance'.

2) Once the little recess has been created, drill a bit deeper but keeping the bur vertical at all times.

3) Now that the holes are suitably drilled in the metal. Ensure that the overall diameter of the stone matches the hole.

4) Use your 'twist drill' to thoroughly drill the hole all the way into the metal.

5) I'll be using a round bur to clear an opening for the stone.

6) This is the best technique for figuring out the Pavilion for the stone. I'll use a Bud-shaped bur to prepare for the setting of the stone. 

The Bud bur MUST BE THE EXACT SIZE OF THE STONE.

                              QUICK REVIEW.

1) Always be watchful that your burs are held in a vertical position while being drilled.

2) Remove all of the remaining slivers of metal around each of the holes. These little slivers of metal ARE NOT WANTED, get rid of them ... NOW! I'd use a pumice wheel to clean the surface.