What is "Flush SETTING" => 2 pages of texts

  I personally wrote this article, but the diagrams were published in the "Bench" magazine around 2005.

 If you wish to make the text larger, simply reprint the two pages again but using a larger font size.

 The term "Flush setting" refers to the technique of having the stone sitting 'flush' with the surrounding metal. Another name for this technique is "Gypsy Setting".
 =======================================

Is this stone a "Cubic Zirconia", or a "Diamond"? => 17 photos

 This essay might seem like a repeat of a previous essay, but this is very essential to learning about these subtle differences.
 This photo is exactly how a genuine diamond crystal appears after it has been removed from the earth & cleaned. These lines are the 'growth lines' during the millions of years of being formed.

 The names of these facets were not of my writing but 'official diamond names'. These names are also used to differentiate one facet from the others. Let's call them a 'GPS' on the gemstone. 

 This photo is a picture of genuine, uncut diamonds. The darker-looking stones are not of gem quality, but will be used solely in industry.

 Here is a packet of unpolished diamonds of various shapes.

If these were CZ stones, they would never be seen in this condition, as the stone supplier wouldn't manage to sell them.

 These gemstones are of "Olde European Cut"; these are not designed for today's standards. You can observe the small "Table facet" and the removal of the Culet that has been totally polished off or partially removed.

 This 'stone cutting-designing' is not done on Cubic Zirconia stones.

 Here are a few names of previous gemstone facets. Again, CZ or "Cubic Zirconia" stones were never cut like these. You can now see the progression of 'facet cutting'.

 This is my interpretation of the angles of the facets in showing how light is reflected as it enters a CZ. The light will not equally reflect back to the viewer, hence appearing to be non-reflective.

 In this photo, you can see just how the rays of light are reflected back to the viewer. The light is bouncing back off the 'Pavilion Facets', thus giving an equal reflection, and this does not happen in any CZ.

===============================

 THESE NEXT THREE PHOTOS ARE TAKEN ON Cubic Zirconia stones. Normally, these damaged facets are not common on diamonds.

1) This damaged Girdle Facet will basically occur on 'softer gemstones'. Softer stones mean they have a Moh's Scale rating of less than 8.0; a Diamond has a rating of 10.0

  2) This damaged facet cannot be repaired on any CZ facet. It's cheaper to exchange for a newer stone as the repair is not worth the financial costs.

  3) On a CZ, this thoroughly ruined Culet is beyond repair, and the stone should be discarded. Such damages are not seen on diamonds.

 Here is another example of a 'natural diamond' with its "VVS" clean interior. VVS refers to a grade of a diamond which is "VERY, VERY SLIGHT".

  This 'triangular' blade displays the exact Pavilion Facet angles for the Diamond Polisher to cut every new diamond. This angle is not commonly used in CZ stones. To get the correct reflection, all diamonds must adhere to exacting proportions or angles.

 These are diamonds that are of poor quality but not for gem purposes. The only use that they have is in industry, such as in construction and machine cutting blades & tools.

 No matter what the colour of each stone is, the 'hardness' is never a deterrent, as each diamond is always on a Mohs Scale of 10.

 Here is another display of diamond facet names. These names are very common in gemstone designing; each facet should be given its own angle. If not, the reflected light will not be returned to the eye, and CZ stones usually do not have such accurate angles.

 If the angles are not of exact proportions, the stone will look dark.

 

This diamond crystal could be cut into many shapes, such as Baguettes or even Marquise-shaped stones.

 This photo is of triangular-shaped diamonds and is being made ready for polishing & shaping.

For your information, this exquisite diamond now sits in the "Royal Crown" in London, England. Breathtaking gemstone, agree?

Why MUST you rub a "soft pencil" into your Polishing Papers? => 10 photos

 This is a very unusual question, but it has much merit to it. Let's now explore the answer in great detail.

 The results of polishing your tools on these modified papers are unbelievable! I'm first applying a 'soft core' drafting pencil to my #240 rough textured paper. It's so rough that it can't be named 'Polishing Paper' at this stage.

 You can easily see the remnants of the pencil are still visible. In all actuality, the soft pencil transforms this paper to #400 grit.

 You can see the pencil with its 'softness' being displayed.

 Instead of buying new sheets of paper, all you need to do is rub the drafting pencil against the paper. This will quickly transform the paper to a #400 grit.

  Before you select a section of paper for modification, please use a 'clean section'.

 As I keep mentioning, that to buy extra paper is a total waste of your money. The #600 grit 'rough textured paper' shown here is now turned into #800 softer grit. Interesting process?

  You can see where the 'pencil rubbing' has started. This is exactly where you can modify your gravers....WOW, eh?

 You should apply your 'pencil rubbing' to a longer area on your paper. Why? Your graver modification will get a much finer polishing on the longer contact. Agree?

 What are we doing to this paper? We, in essence, are pushing the softer pencil lead deep into the pores of the paper, nothing else!

 The result of this 'pushing' the pencil granules and (again) transforming the paper into a much softer paper.

This paper was originally #1,000 grit, but now it's equivalent to #1,600 grit. Your engraving tool (blade) will shine so much nicer without any extra money spent.

 From an original #1,200 grit, this polishing paper has exceeded your wildest expectations. This polishing paper is now equivalent to #1,800 grit. The cost to you is $0.00.

  This tutorial essay was written just on the process of enhancing the engraving blade for "Pave' & Bright Cutting". If you continued to buy reams of polishing paper, the costs would be astronomical.

What is a 'Pin Vise' => 11 photos

 Of all of the necessary diamond setting tools in your bench, your 'Pin Vise' is the most important tool. Why is this? Please let me explain this fact along with photos.

  Although these tools come in various shapes and sizes, they all serve one purpose: to hold jewellery.

 The pin-vise is great, but the handle is too thin for the fingers and the palm to wrap around. I'll show you what I did! 

 I went to a hardware store and purchased a wider wooden handle. This gave me a more suitable gripping action for a long duration of stone setting.

  I can now screw the vise into the NEWER and a wider wooden handle. Isn't this a fantastic solution?

  When I received an order for 100 pairs of earring studs, I had to quickly devise a new apparatus and start my immense setting project.

 The 'vise' top can be changed at a moment's notice and modified to hold different pieces of jewellery.

 The 'side screw' can be tightened very securely and the top pins can be adjusted to hold any piece of metal.

  The top pins that are made of brass may be indented with grooves to avoid ruining any effects.

  Here are the brass pins with their cut-out grooves. These are specifically designed for intricate patterns.

  Instead of having the pins on the outside. I created the pins to grab the circular rim on the inside. There was no longer any need for shellac, as it could be difficult to hold and keep clean.

These are Heating WAX PENS & which is best for you. => 7 photos.

 Instead of using a large electric heating pen apparatus, I prefer to hold this lightweight pen, now being shown in this photo. There are, of course, limitations to these mini-wax pens. We will discuss them in this essay.

 For those who wish to have more control over the temperature, this 'heating pen' is the route to take. 

If you are using a wax heating pen for a long period in your busy day. I suggest this apparatus above the 'battery-operated'.

 In using a 'lightweight heating pen', the heating tips have numerous shapes at your disposal. Here are a few of them in this display.

 These 4 wax pens are all battery-operated, but they can't be temperature-controlled by the user. (What you see is what you get.)

The 'on & off' is controlled by a lever located in the handle. The problem is that there are no guides to let you know when the battery is getting low on power.

These are not meant for continuous use; therefore, I heartily suggest the apparatus shown in the above photo.

 With these 'mini' wax pens, there are no 'heat controls', it's either HOT, or HOT.

  In many of my tutorial essays, you've seen my 'wax pen' being used; here they are for you to decide which is best for you.