Learn how to set Baguettes => 2 magazine pages

 This essay was originally printed about 20 years ago in the "Bench" magazine. It bears repeating often as a diamond setter might just come across this situation. 

 I suggest that you print out these 2 pages for your own records.

 

Wax Sprues that need to be displayed => 18 (not so) simple waxes

 This essay is not for the beginner who has just a few simple waxes to cast. Planning and much thought will make each pattern worthy of being made.

 Many of these patterns have been shown previously on this blog. My expertise of 65 years in this business has given me a different view on wax casting.

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 This very delicate ring needs to have all of the holes drilled, especially before the casting processes.

 Here are three widths of wax sprues. It's good to have a variety of thicknesses on hand while preparing for these delicate sprues.

 This curved bracelet must be gently attached to the inside hollow wax. Making sure that the sprues are adequately and securely attached and with no spaces as seen here.

 

 As seen in other items, these numbers are the weights of the wax, excluding the numerous wax sprue weights.

 How would you know the desired sprue lengths? I'd secure one end and cut off the unattached end. How easy was this?

 Supposing that there are holes that need filling, I'd use my wax melting pen and fill in the holes one at a time.

 With the same wax pen, secure the sprue to the end of this pendant. Make sure that the melting is thick enough for metal casting.

 The joining of the sprue MUST BE SUFFICIENT FOR METAL CASTING.

  If there are minute defects in and on the new wax, please scrap and inject again.

 

This wax joining is not good!!! Please redo the wax completely.

  Keep the 'wax joining' to the underside of this CAD-created decal.

 I personally like to add additional sprues where needed. My idea is that they are free, so why not use them?

 I prefer to have an 'extra' sprue attached to the inside of the greatly detailed ring. The reason is that this ring needs a complete metal casting with no problems.

 Here is another view of the same ring with the wax sprues attached.

  As there are two delicate pieces to this ring, I'm not looking for casting problems. I'll split the sprues and join underneath.

 Here is my CAD-created dice. I created numerous sprue rods and joined the walls together. There were 6 joining spots.

 I wanted this to be a 'ONE-ONLY' casting. Duplicate injections didn't enter my mind.

 Instead of shaping the ends of the sprues with a file, I thought of another idea. Why not just tightly squeeze the wax sprues with the ends of a pair of pliers? 

 The results are seen here, as care was 100% achieved.

 This idea wasn't taught to me in a textbook, my "Dyslexic" mind overcame many solutions seen throughout this blog.

Are your 'wax sprues' good to be used? => 7 photos

  One of my 'comment readers' wanted MORE photos of wax connecting sprues. Well, to make her and everyone happy, I put together another collection of these essential 'wax connecting' sprues.  

 Some of the photos need further explanation, others are just 'self-explanatory'. As there are many photos, I broke this inventory into 8 'detailed' essays. This is what must be shown, and I'm sure you will all agree!

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 This simple wedding band needs no introduction, as it is mainly for "Flush Setting" of gemstones. You'll notice the rather thick wax sprue, a fantastic decision by the designer to administer a greater flow of metal.

 This particular ring wax is on the verge of being scrapped, as there are defects in the wax.

 Always examine a wax before starting to prepare the sprues. Your time is so very precious; don't avoid this inspection.

 Are all of the claws of the same width and height? Are all of the claws ready for stone setting? Are any of them missing?

 One wax sprue might not be enough; in this head, there might not be enough chances for the metal to flow everywhere.

 The numbers refer to the weight of the wax, excluding the long shaft of the sprue.

 This keychain only needs one sprue, but make it thick as to allow more metal to flow evenly. If you need to attach another sprue to the long arm, so be it; it's your decision.

Wax Sprues #3 => 7 photos

 These wax sprues are not just simple, easy to cast. Each of them is just beyond difficult. The need is to investigate how the metal will flow once in the metal flask.

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  When you are attaching a wax item to the wax sprue, always be cognisant of how the final cleaning will evolve.

 In this highly delicate item, the only place to attach a sprue is at the bottom of the neck.

1) I suggest careful cleaning & polishing before soldering the head to the pendant. 

2) The 'circle of mini-claws' where the gemstones will be set needs to be carefully thought about.

3) The four corners of gemstones will literally be the last items to work with.

4) Polishing of the 'circle of stones and head' must be done before the actual joining of the 3 pieces. This is one of the most 'intricate and carefully planned' items in this extensive collection.

 

 The original sprue that was made is a testament to how the manufacturer thought about the casting processes.

 This disk of gemstones was the basis of my 'Guinness World Record". I wanted to keep all of the claws and not have any of them get destroyed in the casting process.

 Major planning between me and my CAD designer took many hours to plan where the sprues should be placed.

                REVIEW OF PREVIOUS SPRUES.

 Additional wax sprues will give you added help with the flow of metal.

 Never rely upon the wax item to guide the flow of metal.

 

The front of this necklace is where the gemstones will be mounted.

 1) Please inspect every mini-claw to ensure that none of them are missing.

2) Pre-polishing of the separated circle of claws is essential.

3) When you are ready to set the stones, just ensure that the circle doesn't overlap the sides of the pendant.

    

                  IMPORTANT RULE TO REMEMBER

    ALWAYS ALLOW FOR THE "6 PER CENT SHRINKAGE".

 This will occur from the wax to the final and completed construction of your item. Have fun reading this essay. There is so much to read and learn. 

 This is so mind-boggling even for me to remember all of the salient points.

Mini-wax sprue bracelet => 6 photos

 Those 4 cornered holes were an afterthought for gemstone settings.

 The horse's upper profile is a separate wax. The circle of mini claws was another wax that had to be set first and then joined before the face was to be soldered.

 In essence, there are 3 pieces to this one pendant. This is a really delicate combination of "wax =>gold" items.

 I saw this little pendant that was worth saving. Again, I made a mould of it first. The attached sprue was of the correct size, and no wax sprue alterations were necessary.

 I created this ornate bracelet from a hollow curved surface. I attached a long sprue to extend from one end to the other.

 All of these wax circles were intended for multiple-tube settings. The placement of all of these tubes was decided before any wax castings. 

 

 Wax sprues had no costs involved, so I was not bothered by how many there were. I thought of the flow of the metal, as this was my only concern.

 When the metal sprues were to be removed, this was not a major cleaning problem. I am more concerned about the flow of metal while in the flask.

MORE interesting wax sprues => 11 photos

          These waxes are 9 on my rate of difficulty, out of 10.

 I don't want to have one chance of copying this bow. Always have a backup by making a rubber mould of it first.

  I always added more wax sprues, in case the flow of metal is insufficient. There is 'no charge' for the added sprues. 👌👌

  The spread of the wax needs a wider casting flow. Always be cogniscent of this fact as we are dealing with many cases of wider waxes.

 This long pendant wax needs additional help with a full-length wax sprue.

  Along with this long and much wider wax, extra thought must go into accommodating these unusual dimensions.

  DON'T PUT ANY 'CASTING SPRUES' ON THE FRONT SURFACE. WHY NOT? We need to preserve the overall design.

 This individual bracelet link needs additional 'wax contacts'. These holes were especially made for stone setting at a later date.

 When you apply the wax sprue, always be aware of the thickness of the actual horse's face. This thickness can make or destroy a delicate casting. How can 'we' prepare for this eventuality?

 I used a gauge to measure the many sections of the face. If I noticed that some areas were too thin, I'd drop some warm wax onto those thin spots.

 The numbers "4.3" were the weights of the wax prototype.

  You can readily see why "NO WAX CONTACTS HAVE BEEN MADE ON THE FRONT OF THE FACE". I wanted to thoroughly preserve the many 'facial and hair' outlines.

 The widest areas of any wax form need extensive revisions in the placement of the wax sprues.